Made-to-measure shirts
How a man's shirt should fit
Collar, shoulders, sleeves and freedom of movement: a practical reference for a shirt that sits well under a jacket and feels comfortable throughout the day.
A well-chosen shirt reveals itself in the collar line, the way the cloth falls around the body and ease of movement. The labelled size is a starting point. Two men with the same neck measurement can have different shoulders, posture and silhouette preferences.
When assessing a shirt for a client, we begin with its purpose. A shirt for a suit and tie is assessed buttoned and tucked into the trousers. An everyday style is also considered with an open collar, according to how it will actually be worn.
The collar: comfort when buttoned
Fasten the top button and turn your head naturally. The collar should follow the neck comfortably, with an appropriate amount of space. One or two fingers between the neck and the fastened collar provide a starting reference; comfort and shape determine the final assessment.
If you wear a tie, try the shirt with it. Collar shape and the required neck circumference are separate choices, each contributing to the fit.
Shoulders and upper chest
View the shirt from the front and back with relaxed arms. Strong diagonal tension towards the shoulders or around the armholes calls for a review of the proportions. Shoulder shape deserves its own assessment alongside the width of the body.
During a consultation, explain what concerns you about your current shirts: shoulder position, restricted movement, excess cloth at the back or gaping between buttons. This provides a more precise starting point than a general request for a tighter fit.
Sleeve and cuff work together
Check the length with the cuff fastened. It should sit comfortably around the wrist and hold the sleeve in place. Extend your arms and bend your elbows, checking that the cuff remains comfortably positioned as you move.
If you wear a watch, mention which wrist it is on. Its volume affects comfort around the wrist. When selecting double cuffs, also consider the cufflinks you plan to wear.
The line through the body
Stand, sit and lean forward slightly. The cloth should allow your usual movements. A still image in a mirror captures part of the picture; a working day includes driving, sitting and moving in a jacket.
For a business shirt, we would begin with a moderately shaped silhouette and refine the fit for the figure and cloth. Also check how spare cloth sits above the belt when the shirt is tucked in.
When ordering online
Follow the instructions for each measurement in the Really Bespoke shirt builder. Enter values in the format shown in the relevant instructions. Body measurements and measurements taken from a finished shirt use different methods. Clarify any uncertainty with the atelier before submitting.
For body measurements, ask another person to measure you. Stand naturally and maintain your usual posture. Follow each instruction when recording measurements and any required ease.
Add specific notes about your preferred fit, watch or posture. You can also begin with a personal consultation in Varna.
Further technical references: collar fit and the relationship between sleeve and cuff , Proper Cloth.