1) The starting point: occasion, season and frequency of wear

Before considering individual cloths, we establish when and where you will wear the suit: daily business, formal events, travel, year-round use or a particular season. This guides the weight, structure, resilience and finish.

2) Our suppliers and available cloths

At Atelier & Boutiques EMIL HRISTOV, we work with selected cloths from leading producers: DRAGO in Biella, DRAPERS by Vitale Barberis Canonico, Albini and Carnet. We also hold Italian cloths in stock, allowing a shorter process for certain selections while preserving the quality of the garment.

3) Wool, cashmere and blends: drape and structure

High-quality wool is often the foundation, offering elegance and resilience. Cashmere adds softness, while compositions with silk can bring a more pronounced lustre. The cloth is selected for its intended use, with handle considered alongside performance.

4) The Super S classification: understanding 130S to 210S

Designations such as 130S, 150S, 180S and 210S belong to the Super S classification and describe wool-fibre fineness. A higher number corresponds to finer fibre, associated with a softer, smoother handle in the finished cloth.

In practical terms:
• 130’s – 150’s — a useful combination of refinement and resilience for a frequently worn suit: business, meetings and travel.
• 160’s – 180’s — a finer, more delicate cloth for occasion tailoring, where handle and appearance are central to the choice.
• 190’s – 210’s — exceptionally fine fibres with a silky handle and fluid drape. These cloths call for more attentive care and suit occasional tailoring particularly well.

Our selection includes fine wool cloths from 130S to 210S and we guide the choice around your lifestyle: how often you wear a suit, how you move and travel, and the silhouette you want at the end of the day.

5) Vicuña: a rare fibre

For clients exploring exceptional natural fibres, we also offer cloths containing vicuña. Vicuña is among the world's rarest and most valuable natural fibres, prized for its softness, warmth and fineness. It offers a particularly discreet expression of luxury.

6) The final selection: cloth, cut and details

Cloth and cut are selected together. Once the silhouette, construction and details are established, the fabric can express its drape and line on the wearer.

For a consultation and cloth selection: contact@atelieremilhristov.com